Bugaboos, British Colombia, Canada, Summer 2007

 

My pal Ken and I took a month during summer 2007 to climb in Rocky Mountain National Park, CO; Grand Teton National Park, WY; and Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, BC.  In the Bugaboos we stayed in the Conrad Kain climbing hut and had several days of good climbing weather and a few days of snow and rain.  Here are some photos from the Bugaboos leg of the trip.


Hiking in

Chicken wire and fenceposts!

Word here is that porcupines will chew apart the soft underbelly of your vehicle if given the chance. The park graciously provides chicken wire with which you can fashion a protective barrier for your car.

Barrier established

I can't help but wonder if this is all cooked up by the locals for laughs. Has anyone out there actually had their car chewed up?

Rain forest

Obviously it is very wet here.

Pretty flowers along the trail

Rock, ice and more pretty flowers

More rock, more ice and more pretty flowers

Yup, they are pretty

Trail to Conrad Kain hut

The hike is short and sweet. Parts are blasted into the canyon wall.

Trail to Conrad Kain hut

Vertical trail.

More scenery on the trail

The ample precipitation provides lots of ice and lush vegetation.

Close-up of fireweed

More scenery on the trail


The Conrad Kain Hut

Front entrance to hut

Hut outhouses

Conrad Kain

Kitchen

When the hut is at capacity the kitchen is elbow-to-elbow.

Main sitting area. Very cozy in bad weather.

Gear drying area

Porcupines again

Trail from hut. Snowpatch Spire in background.

Sleeping area. Again, elbow-to-elbow when hut is full.

Hydropower electric generator for hut.


Climbing

Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col; Pigeon Spire in background

Access to much of the climbing is through this col. It is steep, crevasse-ridden and prone to rockfall. It demands respect.

Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col

Approaching the steeper slopes. During our stay a climber fell and was injured on this slope and had to be helicoptered out.

Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col

Bergschrund near top of col.

Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col

Top of col looking down toward Crescent Glacier and hut.

Icefall between Pigeon and Snowpatch from south

Porta-john at Bugaboo-Snowpatch col

Pigeon spire in background.

On Cain Route, Bugaboo Spire

Upper part of Cain Route

There are a couple pitches of technical climbing on the upper part of Cain Route

Bugaboo Spire summit ridge

On top of Bugaboo Spire

Snowpatch Spire

Snowpatch route ascends from other side to saddle on L then up to R of snow patch. Climbing not technically difficult but routefinding is very exacting.

Snowpatch Route, Snowpatch Spire

Rappel route off of Snowpatch

McTech Arete ascends arete in center of photo

Crux pitch of McTech arete

Small roof on McTech Arete

Same roof

Our Canadian friends